Buena Vista, 4.45 am outside the Topaz Motel. ( I lasted about 5 minutes; it was 40 degrees.
I did not do a blog entry last night for various reasons and I woke up early wanting to write. Several years ago, I started writing almost every day and then I got lazy and basically stopped. One of the realizations that I have during these trips is how important it is to write and I am going to makes renewed commitment. And to make some other changes in areas that I know I am capable of.
I am not sure why these trips provide an opportunity for reflection, but they do. Perhaps it is because of my time with George. We are both "candid" with each other about each other. Perhaps it is because of the Intense focus necessary to ride a motorcycle safely. There is a decided meditative quality when you ride. That may sound bizarre given the loudness of the machines and the speeds they travel; this would appear to be the antithesis of spending a week at a retreat at a spiritual center, but in many ways it is not. In both settings it is possible (and necessary) to rid your mind of the the thoughts that are so often destructive. Your mind becomes more quiet during theses rides and that brings about a healthy dose of awareness.
George will think this is all a bunch of hogwash.
We started yesterday in Crested Butte, a mining town turned ski resort and watering hole for the one percent. We had a great time and healthy discussions about Lance Armstrong who was there for a bike race. But it is not the type of town we wanted to spend a lot of time in, so we got on the machines and took off. There had been a disagreement about the route (not uncommon). The previous day I had wanted to take a longer and more ambitious adventure; the next day I felt that I had taken too strident a position ("George, I am NOT going on route 50"), and apologized. George then said that he wanted to go the longer way.
We headed off over a 30 mile dirt road to take the shortest route to Aspen. Unlike the other "dirt" we have enjoyed, we did not have the place to ourselves and it was filled with dust and other cars. We had another brief encounter with cattle blocking the road ( the larger ones stare menacingly at you when you are near the calves).
We then headed east on a two lane road along the Gunnison canyon and eventually over to Aspen. We stayed about half an hour after briefly taking in the usual wine festival and international rugby tournament. As noted, these towns are not for me unless they have a foot of powder.
We went over Independence pass at 12 thousand feet, going up and down the most narrow twisting roads of the trip. Great fun. I usually go first, updating George on hairpin turns and oncoming traffic, but I must say that he is now so Incredibly competent on his bike that he does not need much help. He is irrationally still scared of interstate highways, but on challenging back roads his improvement has been amazing. And by amazing, I don't mean excessively fast; he really knows how to handle the bike now. In the past, it seemed at times he was fighting it and sometimes struggling with the machine. He was safe because he went so slow and would stop constantly to let other cars past; no longer. There is no doubt that this "sport" is dangerous, but George is now incredibly competent and shows good judgment. I am proud of him.
We stopped in Twin Lakes, a very small town dominated by two 14 thousand twin peaks (yes there are also two lakes of very different sizes so I am not sure why they call it Twin Lakes). This is one of my favorite places in Colorado. I realized that this is now my fifth trip to Colorado in the past year and I love it more each time.
I am sure that George has already described our great night in Buena Vista and the Kelsey Hunt concert which I had earlier made emphatically clear I would not attend. She brought the house ( maybe 50 people) down; the next day she was off to play in front of ten thousand in a sold out concert (with other artists) in Telluride. I bought an autographed CD (for Celia),
I realize that we had too many long days on the bikes, not enough rest, and did no hiking. That should change in the future. Going off road was fantastic but I am returning home with many aching bones and feeling pretty tired. A fantastic trip, an ever evolving relationship with George, but we should change some things in the future.
It's been almost two weeks since I have seen Celia because she went away with some friends to one of the "Thousand Islands" on the St. Lawrence. I have really missed her.
-Eric
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On Saturday we got a late start so that we could watch the Alpine Odyssey 100 K in Crested Butte. The town was buzzing Friday night that Lance Armstrong would be racing. I knew from reading his biography that he would show up one minute before race time and go right to the front of the pack. So, I positioned myself accordingly. Not to disappoint, he arrived exactly as the PA announcer declared "60 seconds to start time".
Fame has its privileges.
Around 11 a.m. we departed Crested Butte and headed to Kebler Pass Road.
This is a beautiful forest road that connects highway 135 with Paonia Reservoir and highway 133. It was an easy drive, suitable for any vehicles. If you have your own car and like aspens, mountains, and lots of photos ops, take this road. The next time you are in town. You won't be disappointed.
We stopped for lunch at a Subway in Carbondale. I had a vegetarian sub, six inches. Tastes just like back home. Yum!
From Carbondale we headed east for about 45 miles and stopped in Aspen.
It was cool to arrive in the middle of a huge rugby torunament. Lots of beer tents, music, and big hulking guys who were ready to do battle.
Unfortunately, aI could not convince Eric to stick around and watch. I couldn't help but recall my short career playing in college. I broke my nose in the fourth game. I went to the hospital where they reset it by wrapping gauze around some forceps, sticking it my nose and jerking it back into place. As unpleasant an experience as I can ever remember.
Aspen itself was disappointing. Lots of upscale restaurants and shops. Like Crested Butte, it didn't have any of the authenticity of the mining towns like Silverton and Ouray.
East of Aspen, we steadily climbed Highway 82 next to the Roaring Fork River towards the Sawatch Range and reached a high point of 12K plus feet at Independence Pass,
then descended into the even more beautiful valley of Lake Creek, eventually joining US 24 approx. fifteen miles south of Leadville. The scenery at the pass and all along the 44 mile route was some of the most spectacular we've seen. The road ran right beneath many great mountains including the highest in the state (14K plus foot Mount Elbert), and rose well above the treeline into the stark Alpine tundra zone, while also passing lakes, rivers, steep-sided valleys, thick forests of fir and extensive aspen groves. This time of year the yellowing leaves made the landscape incredibly colorful and photogenic.
From Lake Creek
we booked it to Buena Vista. We were pretty wiped out but needed to get within striking distance of Denver so that we could finish the trip by 11 a.m. this morning. We had a decent meal at a local Asian restaurant. It seems you can now call a Chinese restaurant an Asian restaurant and charge twice as much. Afterwards, we went into the local "theatre" to watch/listen to some blues music. We were told that the lead act, Kelley Hunt,
was a national star. We hadn't heard of her but she sure played like she was. The concert was a fundraiser for the local library. We felt good about paying the $25. The good music was a bonus.
We are now in the airport waiting for our flight. Goskowski just missed a 40 yd. kick at the end of the game. Pats lose. Ouch.
A wonderful trip. A big thank you to Bill Smith, the bike store (Colorado Tourbike Rentals) owner who rented us the BMW's. A great guy and great bikes. And of course, thank you Eric for the exhausting, but exhilarating ride.
That's it for now. Thanks for following.
Until next year....
- George
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Location:Oak Hill St,Denver,United States