In Oct. ‘09, we set off on a weeklong motorcycle trip thru Vegas, Zion, Bryce Canyon on Honda ST1300's. In ‘10, we trekked thru Yosemite on KTM 990's. In ‘11, we rode thru torrential rains in Quebec on our own BMW’s. In '12, we rented BMW R1200GS and 650GS' and headed into the Colorado Rockies. In April, '13 we explored the Grand Canyon, Capital Reef and Monument Nat'l Valley on 1200GS's. In Sept '13, we will take 800GS' and 1200GS' to the Grand Tetons, Yellowstone and beyond.
Arrived in Quebec City today around 6:30 p.m. after taking 200 miles of back roads from Bromont. The rain was coming down hard early but became intermittent in the afternoon. The last hour was rain free, a wonderful exception to the first three day rule.
I'm actually getting accustomed to riding in the rain. We were going steadily between 60 and 70 mph and though I was hyper aware of all me surroundings, I was a lot less scared.
Unfortunately, the Bluetooth headset on my helmut didn't charge properly last night so Eric and I were incommunicado throughout the day. It was only a problem once as Eric missed the turn to stay on rte 161. I honked, waved and tried to speed up to catch him but to no avail. He finally realized his mistake ten miles later and he stopped to talk. It ended up being ok as we cut through back roads to get back to 161. It was a gorgeous ride with no cars in sight parralel to a river to a small river.
We stopped at Tim Horton's in Victoriaville for lunch. I had hoped to charge the headset there but suprisingly there was not one power outlet in the public area of the restaurant. Very upsetting. I'm going to write a letter.
We ate dinner tonight at Portofino, a nice Italian place a few minutes walk from the Hotel Clarenton in old town where we are staying. I had Pizza Greca. Eric had the Linguini and Shrimp. Both were delicious. I was tempted to buy the bottle of wine that Margot and I loved in Tuscany last spring. Unfortunately it cost 5x more here. If Margot was here, maybe. Eric, no.
I really like old town. Full of history, lots of character and old world charm, many narrow cobblestone alleys, elegant residences and an eclectic selection of nice restaurants. I want bring the family here some day.
After dinner we took a walk to the rocky overhang in front of the incredible Chateau Frontenac hotel overhanging the St. Lawrence. When we looked over the edge we were stunned to see the Queen Mary 2
docked along the shore line for the night. Incredible.
I have to say, I have been very impressed with Eric'a French. He's gotten us out of a couple of binds and helped us make a few friends. I never knew. Some day maybe my Pig Latin will come in handy.
We're thinking we will stick around here for a day and explore the area. Maybe we will head home through Maine on Wed-Fri. We'll see. Depends on the weather.
Celia, thank you for lending me your beautiful motorcycle. Your BMW R1150R, weighs 480 lbs but rides like it is half that. With heated grips, a windshield, air horn, self canceling blinkers, blinking brake lights, high intensity high headlights, engine guards, custom mirrors and more, I feel like a king. Thank you so much.
That's it for now. From beautful Quebec City, have a good night.
I must apologize to my loyal readers for not making an earlier entry. As is usually the case, virtually all of the prep work for the trip was properly left in my hands, leaving me somewhat exhausted on the first day.
We have had a wonderful time, particularly if you like driving motorcycles over bad roads with torrents of rain and tropical storm force winds. The weather was so bad that the people who ran the ferry would not allow us on for fear that the bikes would be tossed by rough seas into Lake Champlain. No matter. We did a 125 mile detour around the south side of the lake and arrived soaking wet in lake placid after going through the pass near Keene where the temperature was near 35 degrees on my bike thermometer.
So this is a different type of trip. Perhaps some other comparisons are in order. From a technology standpoint we are far ahead. George shows no reticence in taking out the iPad even in the most elegant of restaurants and seems oblivious and indifferent as the glow of the pad interrupts the candlelight of the couple sitting at next table. I also added a droid to the trip. It has been a mixed blessing. I spent an hour dictating (voice recognition) a prior version of this entry only to delete it by pressing the wrong key).
The addition of motorcycle intercoms has also been a welcome addition, allowing us to amuse each other with various inane banalities as we battle through the weather. The range is five miles so we often have times of silence since George prefers a slower pace, usually on the shoulder with the emergency flashers on. But the intercoms have been positive, particularly since they allow us to make phone calls or listen to our music when we are not sufficiently distracted by the atrocious weather conditions and oncoming eighteen wheelers.
Well we can no longer make phone calls since we are now in Canada. I never considered Canada a serious separate country, but they now require passports and other papers to get in. We almost did not get in since George's attempt to charm the customs officer was met with a stony glare. Also it turns out that they don't like US money which is all that I bought (in keeping with tradition, George brought nothing). So far, our credit cards don't work since we neglected to notify the banks and we can't call them because, as stated above, our phones don't work. It is unclear whether we will be able to pay our hotel bill tommorow or get gas so this may be our sole entry.
Other traditions continue. Virtually any problem is appropriately left to me. When George's motorcycle broke and I had to drive 75 mile to get the proper wrench to fix it, I found George sitting under a tree sound asleep. Some token effort was offered by him to help me fix the bike but it was rejected as insincere.
Om the forgetfulness front, I would say we are on par with last year. Scarcely an hour goes by without the loss of a key, wallet or passport. The reader will remember the incident last year where I falsely and loudly accused a homeless man at McDonalds of stealing my motorcycle keys, when they were actually in my rear saddlebag. In Plattsburgh NY, I accused several sketchy teenagers of stealing my handlebar GPS, only to find it wedged into the front forks of the bike some sixty miles later.
Complaints about physical infirmities has decreased, due in large part that we have probably not walked more than 100 yards for the last four days. Long gone is any pretense that we will engage in some ancillary physical activity although George insisted I bring his hiking pole and a backpack (both of which fell off my motorcycle today) but he brought no hiking boots.
So all is well. I have, as usual, acceded to George's fear of the dreaded interstate and we have been content to take massive diversions from the direct route that the highway offers so that we can experience night time driving in freezing downpours and have giant trucks barrel right at us instead of joining us collegially in one direction in the adjoining lane. So we are making steady progress.
After a leisurely Saturday breakfast, we finally left Burlington around 11:30 after coming to terms that the rain wasn't going to let up. The temps were in the upper 30's most of the day and the rain alternated from light showers to heavy downpours.
Our original plan was to go to Charlotte (thanks for the tip Matt) and take the ferry over NY to cruise around the Adirondacks. However, when we got to Charlotte we were told that no motorcycles were allowed on the boat. The heavy winds and turbulent waters made it unsafe for bikes. So, we continued south for 22 miles and caught the bigger ferry from Chimney Point over to Crown Point. After crossing we mounted the bikes and headed back north.
This year we are traveling with a Bluetooth intercom system that allows us to talk to each other while riding. This is a blessing and a curse. It helps us make spontaneous decisions and to point out hazards to one another. On the downside, it discourages me from singing and talking to myself. It also forces me to listen to Eric say the same things over and over.
There are seeming only nine words in Eric's vocabulary; "I'm starving" and "I have to go to the bathroom". It reminds me of the long car rides with the kids when they were young. We would make pit stops every 30 minutes. The same is true with Eric. It's painful.
While heading north, instead of taking advantage of the break in the weather, Eric declared once again that he is "starving", mandating that we stop immediately for something to eat. He just couldn't wait the 25 miles to Lake Placid. So, we had lunch in pub in Port Henry. The juke box was playing Boz Scaggs, the TV's were tuned to college
football and we ordered the local delicacy; steak fajita. Delicious. These hearty folks know how to eat.
The minute we got back on our bikes the skies opened up again. We would have had a perfectly dry ride to Lake Placid if we hadn't stopped for lunch. Instead we had a nerve wracking adventure along twisting turns, speeding trucks and oil slicked roads. I let Eric have it on the intercoms.
Lake Placid hasn't changed a bit in the ten years since I've been there. Lots of upscale stores, overpriced restaurants and overcrowded hotels. While sitting in a pub enjoying our hot chocolates,
we dialed for hotel vacancies. After awhile we found a room at the Placid Bay Inn, a $110 roadside "paradise" across from MacDonalds a mile outside of town. The smell of cigarettes, the rock hard matresses and foam pillows couldn't stop us from sleeping. The stress of the ride wiped us both out.
Before hitting the hay we walked into town and found a place to eat called the Dancing Bears. The joint was jumping with Octoberfest in full force. We had a good local stout and a heaping plate of nachos. A great way to unwind after a stressful day.
When we got back to the place we tried to use the hair dryer to dry our gloves and boots. Unfortunately, after every 20 seconds the circuit breaker triggered. The Placid Bay wiring was 80 years old. We gave up after a few minutes.
This morning we awoke at 6:45. It took all we could muster to get into our gloves, boots and suits. They were still soaking wet. For 20 minutes Eric was hunting around the room looking for something; opening his bags, looking under the bed, opening his bags again. He finally asked me if I had seen his neck warmer. I pointed out that it was on his head. This is the way it's gone for the past two days. I don't know if we've been numbed by the cold and rain or whether old age is setting in.
By 8 we were ready to go. I wanted to hop on the bikes and take advantage of the lack of rain. Eric wanted to eat. So, again we ate. We walked over to MacDonalds for a sumptuous feast. I had oatmeal and coffee. Eric had oatmeal, a sausage sandwich and a diet coke. A great way to start a new day.
By now the rain had started again. We hopped on the bikes and headed through town to get out to the road north. As we passed a little adventure store, Eric suggested through the intercom that we stop and look for a pair of Gortex gloves. That was the best suggestion ever made. We bought two pairs and contrary to yesterday, my hands remained warm throughout. Thank you Eric. I owe you one.
After the gloves purchase, we headed back to the bikes. When we got to them Eric had again misplaced his keys.
We went back to the store and the clerk had found them. Eric had dropped them on the floor. We then headed back to the bikes. Upon arrival, Eric declared that he had to go to the bath room again. And, so it goes.
The rain did dissipate for the first hour. That was great. We drove up the west coast of Lake Champlain on rte. 9. It was a picturesque ride with full foliage on our left and deep blue seas on our right. The best stretch of ride yet. Unfortunately it didn't last long. The heavy rains started again and the temps hovered around 40. I was getting used to riding in these conditions. However, the trucks were another story. There is nothing Iike the heavy spray of a tracker trailer blinding you for a full three seconds. Doesn't sound like a long time but trust me, going 55 mph on a fairly major road and not being able to see for three seconds is quite panicky.
I wanted to keep riding through lunch but Eric was... So we stopped at the Tim Hortons in Cowansville for a bite. We were quite the site as we walked into the place, helmets on, dripping from head to toe. It was embarrassing as we created pools of water at our feet. I had a bowl of soup. Eric had the soup, a chicken sandwich and a pepsi.
We then continued on our trek. A little outside of town Eric scream into the intercom; "F... , someone stole my gps.". Somewhere between our last fuel stop and there It had disappeared. I cautioned him about jumping to the conclusion that it had been stolen. "It might have fallen off or you might have left it somewhere.". "No, it was stolen", he replied. At our next stop, 30 miles later, he found it. It had slipped off it's mount at lodged between the front forks of his bike. It was whole and fully functional. Unbelievable.
We arrived at the Chateau Bromont (http://www.chateaubromont.com) in Bromont, Quebec around 4 pm. I hopped in the shower and then settled in for the Patriots game. Another solid performance by Brady but I fear we may have lost Mayo for the year. That would really stink.
Sunday nights in this kind of place are a ghost town. We have been in the pub for two hours having dinner and nursing a couple of beers. Not one other customer has come through the doors.
The receptionist told us that they received word from the town that the water supply had become contaminated and not to drink the water. They have been giving us bottled water to hold us over. Fine with me.
We have to figure out a way to dry our clothes before making the 150 mile trip to Quebec City in the a.m. We can't stand the thought of putting those water-soaked outfits on again.
The forecast is for more of the same tomorrow. However, they say to expect sunshine on Tuesday. I'll believe it when I see it.
That's it for now. Sorry for the lack of blogging. I'll try to be more respectful to our loyal readers going forward.
What to do??? Rain in the forecast everywhere. Canada towards Lake Ontario looks like best of many bad choices. See video below.
Had dinner at Trattoria Delia last night. Lots of parents and students eating. Expensive and ok food. Eric talked. I listened. It's the one constant of our trip. Later.
We arrived at the Burlington Doubletree Hotel at 7:15 p.m., much later than we expected. We didn't leave Waterville Valley until around 11, needing to pack up, change seats on my bike, make a fee calls and fuel up.
Around noon, 42 miles into the trip and a few miles short of Bath NH on Rte 112, we had our first mishap. Riding at 45-50 mph and traveling around a bend, my rear wheel suddenly began to wobble; a very strange and scary thing. I started to lose control but there were no cars behind me and I was able to pull over safely. Eric, riding ahead of me, didn't see what happened so it took a few minutes before he returned. It took us a while to diagnose the problem. Believe it or not the lug nuts on the rear wheel were nearly off. We were shocked. We wondered whether someone had it in for us.
We had no tools with us and we had no cell phone signal. There was however, a college kid from Hofstra spending the Jewish holidays along the river bank by himself sifting for gold. He told us Bath was five miles away. So I rested against a tree while Eric headed on his bike to Bath to see what he could find.
I fell asleep and woke up 75 minutes later when Eric returned from his mission. He had been to a few places and found a metric socket wrench. We were then able to tighten the lug nuts enough to get us to the Kawasaki dealer
15 miles away. The mechanic there used a power wrench to tighten them further.
All in all I was lucky to have been going relatively slow and to have been riding on a back road. Just another reminder to always be on my toes when riding. Anything can happen at any time. Readers, please don't mention this to anyone who cares about me. Thanks.
By the time we got going again, it was after 3 p.m. The route to Burlington on rte 302 was beautiful, the trees mostly green and yellow with a smattering of red. A week or two from now will be stunning.
It's now 8:30 p.m. and we just heard about Francona's Red Sox resignation. We're hungry but we want to see the upcoming press conference on TV. Church Street can wait.
The forecast is for heavy rain tomorrow so we could be sticking around for a couple of days. That's fine. I'm sure we'll have fun no matter what happens.
I thought this year's trip might never happen. Eric and I have been waffling over past few months about where to go. We talked about Patagonia, Norway, Colorado, the Northwest and more. Given our schedules, the stock market dive and our general procrastination, we ended up staying close to home. I'm actually fine with this decision. It allows us more flexibility and I finally get to try Eric and Celia's new bikes; a BMW R1200RT and R1150R. Absolutely gorgeous machines with all conceivable options.
We are sitting at a local coffee shop here in Waterville Valley, mapping out day one. We had originally planned to go to Quebec or Cape Breton Island but the forecast is for more rain, lots of it. Hopefully we can avoid some of it by heading west. Today we've decided on Burlington, VT where we might spend the night or alternatively catch a Lake Champlain ferry over to New York State.
It's been pouring for a few days so there are lots of wet leaves on the ground. We'll have to take it easy. Regardless of the weather, it should be a blast. It's great to be with Eric again and to engage in the endless back and forth banter. Hopefully, for awhile at least, he can forget about the legal case he's leading and I can let go of Sunday Patriots game, the epic Red Sox collapse and last night's ugly Huskies loss to Delaware.
Eric wants to get going so i need to stop typing. We'll try to do a nightly update.
