having breakfast (The Low Carb breakfast is "Ham, bacon or sausage with two scrambled eggs and cheese and orange slices") just down the road from our motel ( Pickle Place view) The two guys next to me are talking about the heavy rains in Colorado. One asked "Why are they deserving of such misery?". The other responded; "Because they're all liberals. The good lord is taking them out and all their marijuana plants too". What a way to start the day. If they strike up a conversation I doubt I will tell them of my Cambridge roots.
We didn't make it very far yesterday, maybe 150 miles. I wanted to keep going but Eric's astraphobia left little room for compromise. So here we are, staying at the DK Motel
in Arco, Utah (pop. 972), 80 miles short of Sun Valley.
We pulled in at 2:30 p.m., shed our gear and headed into town to explore. We toured the Family Dollar and the hardware store. We commiserated with a failed shop owner (he said "What recovery" and "I can't even give my building away"). We admired the mountain face where every high school graduating class for the last 90 years
has painted its class year. A sign above the Rec Center proudly read "The First City in the World Lit by Atomic Power."
I'm surprised the Business Development Center around the corner hasn't convinced them to take it down. Maybe it's just me but I don't think that's going to convince tourists and new business owners to settle here.
The Sawtooth Tavern was the only place with any action. I peeked my head in and was hit by a billow of smoke and the sound of a 50 year old juke box playing country rock. A couple of guys at the pool table looked up. A cigarette hanging from their lips, longneck Budweiser (no craft beer out this way) bottles in one hand and pool cues in the other, they said nothing but still made me feel as welcome as a rattlesnake in an occupied sleeping bag. I turned and left. Two Harley's sat outside. I wondered how shit-faced those pool players would be when they hopped back on those things.
Back at the motel I asked the desk clerk what the complex of buildings was a mile or so outside of town. She paused, sized me up and reluctantly muttered "INL". I should have just let it go but I couldn't help myself. I said "What's that?" The clerk in a near whisper: "Idaho National Labs". Me: "What do they do?" Silence and then: "Just don't go driving out there" and then she turned away. Conversation over.
Yesterday started early, as it often does for me on these trips. I awoke at 5:30. Unfortunately it was 5:30 Eastern time, 3:30 our time.
I laid there for an hour trying to get back sleep. To no avail. So I grabbed what few clothes I could find in the dark room and tip-toed out the door for a stroll into Jackson Hole.
I don't like Jackson Hole, the town that is. It reminds me of some of the fake western towns of our previous trips; Crested Butte, Telluride, Aspen...
The town green is perfectly manicured. There is no dust, no rolling brush, no cowboys, just a bunch of fancy shops and galleries catering to the ultra rich. Before dawn it was deserted. I passed a Starbucks, a Great Harvest Bread store, an Eddie Bauer's, a few banks, some art galleries, oriental rug stores and boutiques selling high end leather goods, cowboy hats and boots. Sotheby's had nothing but multimillion dollar homes advertised in its window.
I asked a security guard where I could get some breakfast. He said Bubba's might be open. Bubba's had a nice ring to it. So I walked the half-mile south of town. It was closed. Just as well, it looked more like a barbecue fast food chain, not quite what I was looking for.
The first thing to open was the Pearl St Market. The cashier's name was Joy. She was any thing but. Pearl St. offered a $12 full buffet. I asked whether I could have just yogurt and fruit. She said "Buy the buffet and take whatever you want." Thanks Joy.
I returned to the Alpine Motel after a few hours and woke Eric from his slumber. I knew he had wanted to make an early getaway in order to beat the projected storms. We got to Eaglerider shortly before 9 a.m.. After some unpleasant nickel and diming by the dealer, we ventured out on to Rte. 22 towards Idaho Falls. Riding through Titon Village and then out of Jackson lived up to its billing. The mountains were stunningly beautiful and the adjacent river glistened in the early day sun.
We stopped in Idaho Falls for lunch and a Harley Davidson rally. A different slice of life. Check Eric's post for more details.
I hope we make it to Red Fish Lake today. It's in the Sawtooth Mountains and comes high recommended.
I hope to post later tonight.
Happy Sunday!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Location:Arco, Utah
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